Tilda Publishing
Сlimbing Rope Inspection
Сlimbing Rope Inspection
Image source: mammut.com
Written in August 2024.
Keep in mind that the relevance of information might change over time.
Keep in mind that the relevance of information might change over time.
Written in August 2024.
Keep in mind that he relevance of information might change over time.
All types of climbing equipment require periodic inspections and condition checks, especially the ones our lives depend on. In this article, we will focus on ropes, covering how to determine their manufacture date and maximum service life, conduct visual and tactile inspections of their condition, identify potential defects, and, based on these factors, decide their fate.
The recommendations provided in this material are primarily relevant for ropes that meet the following standards:
The recommendations provided in this material are primarily relevant for ropes that meet the following standards:
- EN 1891 for Low Stretch Kernmantel Ropes
- EN 892 for Dynamic Mountaineering Ropes (to be translated...)
Checking the Rope's End Markings and Lifespan
Certified semi-static and dynamic ropes, sold in factory coils, have an identification marking/label/tag on both ends that provide all the information about the specific model, including the date of manufacture, rope type, diameter, applied standard, and more. These markings should remain intact and clearly legible throughout the rope's service life. If the markings become damaged or the information becomes outdated, such as when the rope is shortened, the user must update the tag themselves, ensuring the rope length information is accurate.
A shrink-wrapped identification label that can be found on the ends of all Edelrid dynamic ropes, providing information about the rope's specifications.
Source: sport-marafon.ru, paracord.eu
Source: sport-marafon.ru, paracord.eu
Once you verify the presence and satisfactory condition of the end marking, you need to compare the date of manufacture listed on it (not to be confused with the purchase date) with the maximum lifespan/lifetime/shelf life. To find the specific lifespan for your model, check the manual that comes with the rope. If the manual is missing, you can find it on the manufacturer's website. Most manufacturers set a maximum lifespan for modern climbing ropes at 10 years. This means that even if the rope was never used and stored correctly, it must still be disposed of after its lifespan has expired.
Once the lifespan of a climbing rope has ended, it should not be given away, sold on the secondary market, donated to youth climbing clubs, or used in any other capacity where it might still serve as personal protective equipment (PPE). Old ropes must be properly disposed of, recycled, or repurposed into dog leashes, or other items to ensure that no one can use them for safety purposes.
It is important to consider that when purchasing rope by the meter, the marking might be present on only one end or might not be there at all. This often happens when the buyer gets a piece from the middle of the spool, which naturally lacks identifying tags and may also come without a manual. Unfortunately, here in Russia, the service of marking rope ends in stores is not yet established. Therefore, it is in the customer’s best interest to ensure that they are provided with information about the specific model at the time of purchase so that they can mark the rope properly themselves.
An example of an illegible marking that needs to be renewed.
Source: petzl.com
Source: petzl.com
How can one determine the manufacturing date of a climbing rope if the end markings are unreadable or missing, and the rope's specifications and history of use have not been documented or logged in any apps?
How to Determine the Manufacturing Date of an Unidentified Semi-Static Rope
During manufacturing, an identification tape is braided into the core of CE-certified semi-static ropes. This tape is a thin strip of polypropylene that runs the entire length of the rope and displays information such as the manufacturer’s name, applied standard number, rope type, year of manufacture, and the material from which the rope is made. To access the identification tape, you'll need to cut and unravel the end of the rope.
An example of a identification tape hidden within the core of a CAMP EN:1891 certified low stretch kernmantel rope.
Source: edelrid.com, camp.it
Source: edelrid.com, camp.it
How to Determine the Manufacturing Date of an Unidentified Dynamic Rope
CE-certified dynamic ropes have a color-coded thread braided along their core strands. This thread is made of polyamide and comes in one of 10 colors specified by the manufacturer. Each color corresponds to a specific year of production and is repeated every 10 years. Since each rope manufacturer uses its own set of indicator colors, you will need to consult the manufacturer's website to match the color of your rope's tracer thread with the appropriate year.
This can be quite a challenge if you don’t know the name of your dynamic rope manufacturer. In such cases, you may need to search for the exact same rope online or seek assistance from forum experts or potential manufacturers.
This can be quite a challenge if you don’t know the name of your dynamic rope manufacturer. In such cases, you may need to search for the exact same rope online or seek assistance from forum experts or potential manufacturers.
You can see how, in the process of braiding an Edelrid dynamic rope, a green tracer thread is incorporated between the core strands.
According to the Edelrid chart, green threads indicate ropes made in 2015. This color was previously used in 2005 and will reappear in models produced in 2025.
Source: edelrid.com, youtube.com/@edelrid
According to the Edelrid chart, green threads indicate ropes made in 2015. This color was previously used in 2005 and will reappear in models produced in 2025.
Source: edelrid.com, youtube.com/@edelrid
Checking the Rope's Middle Mark and Length
To check the length of your rope, follow the steps below:
- Completely uncoil the rope.
- Check the middle mark of the rope: To do this, hold the two rope ends together, then slide both strands simultaneously through your hands until the middle of the rope is reached. If your rope has a middle mark, check it for accuracy. If the mark is ok, go to the next step. If the mark is not in the right place or if there is no middle mark, place a piece of adhesive tape at the rope's midpoint to help measure its length.
Finding the middle of the rope and checking the accuracy of the middle mark by simultaneously pulling both ends toward the center.
You can double-check the middle mark by tensioning the rope with a partner: one person pulls from the ends while the other pulls from the middle of the rope.
Source: petzl.com
Source: petzl.com
- Measure the length of the rope: For this, mark a 1-meter reference on a flat surface, such as a table. Using the marking, measure the rope in 1-meter increments until you reach the middle. Multiply the measured half-length of the rope by 2 to obtain its total length.
Measuring the rope’s length against a 1-meter reference on a flat surface.
Alternatively, you can fold the rope in half twice and measure the length of the resulting “sandwich.” Then, multiply this length by 4 to estimate the total length of the rope.
Source: petzl.com
Alternatively, you can fold the rope in half twice and measure the length of the resulting “sandwich.” Then, multiply this length by 4 to estimate the total length of the rope.
Source: petzl.com
If the measured length differs from the length indicated on the rope's end markings, they must be updated. This discrepancy can occur not only due to intentional cutting but also because of shrinkage — an irreversible shortening of the rope primarily caused by contact with water. As a result, the factory or self-applied middle mark may become inaccurate. To resolve this, trim the ends of the rope so that the mark is once again at the midpoint. If shortening is not an option, apply a new marking in a way that accurately reflects the true midpoint and avoids misleading yourself or others.
If your rope has a middle mark, be aware that shrinkage can occur asymmetrically relative to the original midpoint of the rope.
Source: petzl.com
Source: petzl.com
Climbing Rope Visual Inspection
Source: petzl.com
Conduct a visual inspection along the entire length of the rope, paying attention to signs and traces of:
Dirt
Dirty ropes not only look and feel nasty but are also prone to accelerated wear.
The effect of dirt on the climbing ropes was vividly demonstrated in an episode of the Hard is Easy YouTube channel, where, in collaboration with the Swiss manufacturer Mammut, they conducted the following test: A length of standard dynamic rope was divided into two, with one half kept clean and the other covered in sand. The rope was then secured to a rotating machine that moved it back and forth against a “sharp” edge while maintaining a constant 80 kg force, simulating the weight of a climber. The rope completed 5 cycles in each direction, followed by a 1-minute break to allow the heated rope and sharp edge to cool down. This process was repeated until the core of the rope became visible. Here’s how it looked:
The effect of dirt on the climbing ropes was vividly demonstrated in an episode of the Hard is Easy YouTube channel, where, in collaboration with the Swiss manufacturer Mammut, they conducted the following test: A length of standard dynamic rope was divided into two, with one half kept clean and the other covered in sand. The rope was then secured to a rotating machine that moved it back and forth against a “sharp” edge while maintaining a constant 80 kg force, simulating the weight of a climber. The rope completed 5 cycles in each direction, followed by a 1-minute break to allow the heated rope and sharp edge to cool down. This process was repeated until the core of the rope became visible. Here’s how it looked:
The test revealed a dramatic difference in wear between the clean and dirty rope after the same number of load cycles. For instance, while the clean rope was barely distinguishable from new, the sheath of the dirty rope had already become fuzzy. And the dirtier the rope was, the faster it became fuzzy, and the fuzzier it got, the more easily dirt penetrated into it.
The point is that dirt acts as an abrasive, that rubs against the rope sheath and causes it to wear out more quickly. And while granite and sand crystals are the worst culprits, even simple climbing chalk can shorten the rope's lifespan. This external abrasion not only accelerates wear on the rope itself but also impacts the equipment it interacts with, such as rappel devices, carabiners, and quickdraws.
Dirt particles can penetrate the rope's core, becoming nearly impossible to remove and causing internal abrasion. This not only gradually damages the rope but also makes it significantly stiffer, affecting its knotability and handling. Therefore, it is crucial to keep your rope clean, and if it does get dirty, wash it promptly.
The point is that dirt acts as an abrasive, that rubs against the rope sheath and causes it to wear out more quickly. And while granite and sand crystals are the worst culprits, even simple climbing chalk can shorten the rope's lifespan. This external abrasion not only accelerates wear on the rope itself but also impacts the equipment it interacts with, such as rappel devices, carabiners, and quickdraws.
Dirt particles can penetrate the rope's core, becoming nearly impossible to remove and causing internal abrasion. This not only gradually damages the rope but also makes it significantly stiffer, affecting its knotability and handling. Therefore, it is crucial to keep your rope clean, and if it does get dirty, wash it promptly.
Rope at risk! Somebody, please call the washing machine!
Source: cmcpro.com
Source: cmcpro.com
Abrasion
The rope's sheath acts as a protective shield for the load-bearing core. During use, this shield inevitably wears down due to friction against various surfaces and contact with belay devices, descenders, and clamps. Consequently, individual yarns become displaced, abrasion begins, and entire sections of the rope become frayed and fuzzy. If such abrasive wear causes the white strands of the core to become visible, this is a clear sign that the rope (or a particular section) must be retired.
Water-resistant treatments can help protect climbing ropes from abrasion by smoothing the sheath surface, reducing friction, and making it harder for dirt particles to penetrate the rope. In this video from Mammut, the Swiss manufacturer compares the abrasion resistance of three types of ropes: untreated, sheath-only treated, and fully treated:
Mechanical Damage
Sharp edges, rockfalls, accidental strikes with an ice axe, or careless steps in crampons can all cause cuts, tears, and other mechanical damage to the rope. If the rope sustains deep damage that exposes or, worse, compromises the core, the affected section must be removed. If the damage is in the middle of the only available rope, the damaged section can be isolated using, for example, an "Alpine Butterfly" knot. In any case, the rope should not be loaded in the damaged area, as this could lead to complete failure or cause a major section of the sheath to slide along the core, bunching up and making the rope unusable.
Heat Damage
Excessive friction during a fall or rapid descent can heat the metal of belay devices and carabiners to the point where the rope might get burned or melted. Rope-on-rope friction, slipping of friction knots, and direct exposure to flames or hot objects can also cause heat damage. In affected areas, the rope becomes stiffer, and the sheath turns smooth, glassy (shining in light), or singed (brown/black). As it is impossible to assess the extent of damage to the internal strands adjacent to the burned area, a rope with significant signs of heat damage must be retired.
Chemical Exposure
Increased stiffness, indelible stains, and faded sections on a rope’s sheath can result from chemical exposure. While not all chemicals are harmful to modern synthetic climbing ropes, it can be challenging to determine whether a specific substance has caused damage. Therefore, ropes exhibiting signs of contamination must be discarded.
The greatest risk arises from chemical exposure, which may not leave any visible traces but can severely compromise the material’s tensile strength. For example, acid fumes from a leaking car battery once caused a rope to fail completely during subsequent use. While haptic inspection, which we will cover later, can help detect such hidden damage, the most effective way to prevent these issues is through careful use and proper storage of the rope.
The greatest risk arises from chemical exposure, which may not leave any visible traces but can severely compromise the material’s tensile strength. For example, acid fumes from a leaking car battery once caused a rope to fail completely during subsequent use. While haptic inspection, which we will cover later, can help detect such hidden damage, the most effective way to prevent these issues is through careful use and proper storage of the rope.
UV Exposure
Ultraviolet radiation accelerates rope aging by weakening its tensile strength, reducing elasticity, making it stiff, and causing the sheath color to fade. Although serious damage typically requires several months of sun exposure, such cases do occur. Therefore, special attention should be given to ropes that are permanently exposed to sunlight, such as fixed lines in the mountains and those that irresponsible owners dry in the sun.
Deformation
If you notice bulges, flat spots, hourglassing, or other diameter irregularities, it may indicate internal damage from shock loads or overloading. Such a rope must be retired.
Sheath Slippage
The sheath and core of kernmantel ropes can shift relative to each other, primarily due to repeated, uniform, one-directional loading, such as during rappelling on fixed ropes or top-roping at a climbing gym. Over time this can cause the sheath to bunch up and expose the white core strands at the rope's end. While this issue is quite noticeable and generally not serious, a more subtle and potentially hazardous problem arises when the core shifts beneath the sheath. This can leave the end of the rope as a hollow sleeve that cannot support significant loads and may slip through belay and rappel devices. Fortunately, if sheath slippage is detected, it can usually be resolved by pulling the rope through your hands with increased force, trimming any excess, and sealing the end of the rope.
Beal "Unicore" Technology Demonstration
Unicore is a method of chemically bonding (gluing) the core and sheath of a rope without affecting the rope's performance or durability. With a Unicore rope, climbers won’t encounter issues with the sheath bunching at the ends or the core becoming overexposed due to sheath slippage, even if the sheath is cut.
Tendon "TeFIX" Technology Demonstration
TeFix mechanically bonds the sheath and core of a rope by adding a special material between them, preventing any movement or separate loading of the two parts.
Climbing Rope Haptic Inspection
A haptic/tactile inspection of the rope is necessary to detect internal damage to the core that may not be visible.
A tactile inspection helps identify internal damage to the rope by looking for sections that feel too stiff or too soft. It can be performed alongside the visual check, but should be done with careful attention and without rushing.
Source: edelrid.com
Source: edelrid.com
To do this, slide the rope through your bare hands, slightly flexing it to detect inconsistent sections where the normal structure changes to overly soft, hard, or crushed spots. Ensure that the entire length of the rope forms a uniform curve with no sharp or uneven bends.
In areas of concern, perform a pinch test. Compress the section of the rope between your thumb and forefinger and check how tightly the strands press together. If the resulting loop collapses completely without showing any resistance or leaving any openings, this may indicate that the core’s integrity has been compromised or the sheath’s tension has decreased. If applying force to straighten this section of the rope (as done to correct sheath slippage) doesn’t resolve the issue, it’s a clear signal to retire the affected part of the rope.
You should be concerned not when the entire rope is uniformly soft and easy to pinch, but rather when there are distinct areas that are significantly softer or, conversely, stiffer than the rest of the rope.
The two types of rope inspection complement each other well. For instance, a slight discoloration of the sheath strands observed during the visual check might not be alarming enough to stop using the rope. However, if a subsequent tactile inspection reveals excessive stiffness in the same section, it becomes a clear sign of chemical or ultraviolet damage. Consequently, the rope or its affected part must be discarded.
If you encounter a truly ambiguous situation:
Still in doubt? Just retire the rope. Your safety is priceless!
- Try comparing your rope with a new one of the same model, or
- Consult a competent person who is qualified to inspect PPE.
Still in doubt? Just retire the rope. Your safety is priceless!
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