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EN 12492 & UIAA 106 Standards for Climbing and Mountaineering Helmets
EN 12492 & UIAA 106 Standards for Climbing and Mountaineering Helmets
Black Diamond Vapor climbing/mountaineering helmet.
Image by Matthew Tufts
Image by Matthew Tufts
Written in August 2024.
Keep in mind that the relevance of information might change over time.
Keep in mind that the relevance of information might change over time.
Written in August 2024.
Keep in mind that he relevance of information might change over time.
CONTENTS:
- Introduction
- Mountaineering Helmet Function
- Mountaineering Helmet Anatomy
- EN 12492:2012 standard: Construction & Material Requirements, Samples Conditioning, Shock Absorption, Resistance to Penetration, Retention System Strength, Retention System Effectiveness, Marking & Labelling
- UIAA-106 standard
- Helmets with Multiple Certifications
Shall we talk about climbing helmets?
But not about the importance of wearing one, various technological features, or how to choose the best model. For that, you’d be better off watching Ben's funny and demonstrative video below. As for me, I’ve sold hundreds of helmets over my retail career and am pretty much tired of repeating these basics.
But not about the importance of wearing one, various technological features, or how to choose the best model. For that, you’d be better off watching Ben's funny and demonstrative video below. As for me, I’ve sold hundreds of helmets over my retail career and am pretty much tired of repeating these basics.
Instead, I invite you to focus on the safety requirements and test methods of the two main quality standards:
- EN 12492 – Helmets for Mountaineers
- UIAA 106 – Climbing and Mountaineering Helmets
The UIAA is a group of climbing industry professionals who gather data, make recommendations on best practices, and establish comprehensive but voluntary standards for climbing gear.
CEN, on the other hand, is a giant organization that issues EN (Conformité Européene) standards, which are mandatory for manufacturers who wish to sell their goods in European Union countries. Although based on the original UIAA standards, EN climbing standards are typically less strict, containing only the minimum design and performance requirements.
To prove compliance with the design and performance requirements of any of these standards, manufacturers must provide a number of test samples — in this case, helmets — to one of the independent laboratories, where they will undergo a series of rigorous tests. The step-by-step procedures for conducting these tests, also known as 'test methods,' are outlined in the mentioned standards and will be vividly demonstrated in this material.
CEN, on the other hand, is a giant organization that issues EN (Conformité Européene) standards, which are mandatory for manufacturers who wish to sell their goods in European Union countries. Although based on the original UIAA standards, EN climbing standards are typically less strict, containing only the minimum design and performance requirements.
To prove compliance with the design and performance requirements of any of these standards, manufacturers must provide a number of test samples — in this case, helmets — to one of the independent laboratories, where they will undergo a series of rigorous tests. The step-by-step procedures for conducting these tests, also known as 'test methods,' are outlined in the mentioned standards and will be vividly demonstrated in this material.
When studying standards, be sure to refer to the most up-to-date document. For example, we’re about to start with EN 12492:2012, the current version that superseded EN 12492:2000, which in turn superseded BS 4423:1969. Considering how quickly climbing gear technologies evolve and that the effective document is now 12 years old, I bet that the next update is coming soon.
Please note that we are discussing helmets designed for activities that involve hazards similar to those found in mountaineering, including but not limited to rock & ice climbing, caving, canyoning, and via ferrata climbing.
The referenced standards do not apply to protective helmets used by alpine skiers, snowboarders, or, for example, construction workers. These helmets are governed by separate standards.
The design differences between an EN 12492 mountaineering helmet (on the left) and an EN 397 industrial safety helmet (on the right).
Source: petzl.com
Source: petzl.com
EN 12492:2012
Mountaineering Helmet Function
In the introductory part of the EN 12492 standard, it is stated that:
This means that the purpose of a good helmet is not to remain intact even if a mountain falls on it, as many people think, but rather to effectively reduce the impact force on the user’s head. This is why old-school, durable bucket-type helmets that sometimes outlive their owners are not always better than modern, lightweight ‘foam’ models, which do break more easily but are quite effective at absorbing impact energy. So, it’s not about how the helmet looks or how long it lasts, but how well it protects your head. And to ensure this, you need to look for compliance with the appropriate standards, also known as certification.
"The helmet absorbs a proportion of the energy of an impact, thereby reducing the force of the blow sustained by the head. The structure of the helmet may be damaged in absorbing this energy and any helmet that sustains a severe blow needs to be replaced even if damage is not apparent".
This means that the purpose of a good helmet is not to remain intact even if a mountain falls on it, as many people think, but rather to effectively reduce the impact force on the user’s head. This is why old-school, durable bucket-type helmets that sometimes outlive their owners are not always better than modern, lightweight ‘foam’ models, which do break more easily but are quite effective at absorbing impact energy. So, it’s not about how the helmet looks or how long it lasts, but how well it protects your head. And to ensure this, you need to look for compliance with the appropriate standards, also known as certification.
A crack in the inner foam of the Singing Rock 'Penta' (1 gen.) helmet.
Even if the outer polycarbonate shell is still intact, this helmet will no longer provide adequate shock absorption for future impacts. It has served its purpose and must be discarded.
Source: outdoorgearlab.com
Even if the outer polycarbonate shell is still intact, this helmet will no longer provide adequate shock absorption for future impacts. It has served its purpose and must be discarded.
Source: outdoorgearlab.com
Mountaineering Helmet Anatomy
In order to fully grasp the requirements of the EN 12492:2012 standard, it's essential to first identify the structural elements common to all climbing/mountaineering helmets. These include:
- Shell: The outer material, usually hard and smoothly finished, that defines the helmet's shape and acts as the first line of defense against impacts and abrasion.
- Protective Padding: Material, usually foam-based, that contributes to the absorption of kinetic energy during an impact.
- Comfort Padding: Liner material provided for the wearer's comfort through cushioning and sweat absorption. Sometimes available in various sizes for a precise fit, in which case it is called sizing padding.
- Retention System (aka Suspension): The assembly of elements that keeps the helmet securely on the head and allows for size adjustments.
- Chin Strap: Part of the retention system consisting of a strap which passes under the wearer's jaw to retain the helmet in position.
- Ventilation Openings: Holes in the shell and protective padding that facilitate air circulation inside the helmet.
Anatomy of the Petzl 'Boreo' climbing helmet.
Source: adventurerig.com
Source: adventurerig.com
Mountaineering Helmet Construction and Material Requirements
- For those parts of the helmet that come into contact with the skin, materials which are known to be likely to cause skin irritation or any adverse effect on health shall not be used.
- There shall be no sharp edges, roughness or projections on any part of the helmet which is in contact or potential contact with the wearer when the helmet is worn, such as is likely to cause injury to the wearer.
- The helmet shall be fitted with a retention system, including a chin strap. The retention system shall have at least three separate points of attachment to the shell. The chin strap shall be adjustable in length. That part of the chin strap which comes into contact with the jaw shall have a minimum width of 15 mm under a load of 250 N.
- All helmets shall be ventilated. The sum of the cross-sectional areas of such ventilation shall not be less than 4 cm² when measured on the surface of the helmet.
Abundant ventilation is one of the key design differences between mountaineering helmets (EN 12492) and, for example, industrial safety (EN 397) or skiing/snowboarding (EN 1077) helmets. This feature is essential for maintaining proper airflow and keeping the head cool during intensive activities like climbing.
However, the standard does not address how the size and number of vents might affect the risk of small falling stones penetrating the helmet and causing injury. Therefore, the only thing left to us, the users, is to rely on the expertise and internal testing conducted by the manufacturers.
The Petzl 'Vertex Vent' helmet meets the EN 12492 standard when the sliding ventilation shutters are open. However, when the shutters are closed, the helmet no longer conforms to the mountaineering standard and instead complies with industrial safety requirements under EN 397.
Source: petzl.comMountaineering Helmet Samples Conditioning
For each mountaineering helmet model, 11 samples must be submitted for testing:
Each of the 11 samples will undergo specific tests: some will be evaluated for shock absorption capabilities, others for resistance to penetration, and others for the strength and effectiveness of the retention system.
However, before testing, each sample must be conditioned according to the following table:
- 6 Helmets in the smallest size.
- 5 Helmets in the largest size.
Each of the 11 samples will undergo specific tests: some will be evaluated for shock absorption capabilities, others for resistance to penetration, and others for the strength and effectiveness of the retention system.
However, before testing, each sample must be conditioned according to the following table:
Conditioning of test samples and size of test headforms.
The latter must comply with EN 960:2006 "Headforms for use in the testing of protective helmets".
The latter must comply with EN 960:2006 "Headforms for use in the testing of protective helmets".
UV aging conditioning is performed using a high-pressure 450-watt xenon lamp with a quartz casing. After 400 hours of radiation exposure, the helmet sample is removed from the conditioning chamber and allowed to return to ambient laboratory conditions.
Thermal conditioning involves keeping the helmet at a temperature of +35 ± 2°C (thermal plus) or -20 ± 2°C (thermal minus) for a duration of 4 to 24 hours.
For conditioning and performance testing, helmet samples are submitted in the condition in which they are offered for sale, including any requisite holes in the shell and any means of attachment for accessories specified by the manufacturer.
Thermal conditioning involves keeping the helmet at a temperature of +35 ± 2°C (thermal plus) or -20 ± 2°C (thermal minus) for a duration of 4 to 24 hours.
For conditioning and performance testing, helmet samples are submitted in the condition in which they are offered for sale, including any requisite holes in the shell and any means of attachment for accessories specified by the manufacturer.
An example of a helmet UV aging chamber.
It features a xenon lamp that simulates solar radiation, which can be harmful to helmet materials if exposure is prolonged.
Source: made-in-china.com
It features a xenon lamp that simulates solar radiation, which can be harmful to helmet materials if exposure is prolonged.
Source: made-in-china.com
As you can see, manufacturers are not required to test climbing helmets beyond standard numbers. Consequently, the behavior of helmets under extreme and unconventional conditions remains unknown. For example, it is unclear how a helmet would perform at -35°C, a temperature that can easily occur during winter or high-altitude mountaineering. This highlights the limitations of standards and how laboratory tests may fall short of fully replicating real-world scenarios.
Mountaineering Helmet Performance Tests and Requirements
Shock Absorption
Principle: During the shock absorption test, a specified striker is dropped with specified energy onto a helmet which is fitted to a rigidly mounted headform. The transmitted force is measured by means of a force transducer located beneath the headform.
This test is aimed at assessing the helmet's ability to absorb impact energy, thereby protecting the wearer's head from falling objects and collisions during a fall.
This test is aimed at assessing the helmet's ability to absorb impact energy, thereby protecting the wearer's head from falling objects and collisions during a fall.
Jorg Verhoeven's epic fall on the China Doll route in Colorado, USA, is a clear example of how climbing helmets can protect against head injuries when bumping against the rock in the event of an awkward fall. Such falls often occur when a climber gets flipped upside down if the rope catches on a leg or during crack climbing.
Source: petzl.com
Source: petzl.com
Standard Requirement: the force transmitted to the headform must not exceed 10 kN under the following conditions:
- When a hemispherical striker weighing 5 kg is dropped onto the top of the helmet from a height of 2 meters.
- When a flat striker weighing 5 kg is dropped onto the front part of the helmet from a height of 0.5 meters.
- When a flat striker weighing 5 kg is dropped onto the side of the helmet from a height of 0.5 meters.
- When a flat striker weighing 5 kg is dropped onto the back of the helmet from a height of 0.5 meters.
Testing the shock absorption (aka impact energy absorption) of a mountaineering helmet according to the EN 12492:2012 standard.
Three samples, each subjected to different conditioning, are tested for top impact, while individual samples are tested for impacts on the front, side, and back, with the strikes delivered at a 60° angle from the vertical axis of the helmet.
Source: edelrid.com
Three samples, each subjected to different conditioning, are tested for top impact, while individual samples are tested for impacts on the front, side, and back, with the strikes delivered at a 60° angle from the vertical axis of the helmet.
Source: edelrid.com
Test Procedure: Within 2 minutes of removal from thermal conditioning chamber, the helmet is fitted onto the appropriate headform and the striker is allowed to fall onto the specified impact point. The maximum force transmitted during the impact is then recorded to the nearest 10 N.
Test Apparatus includes:
Test Apparatus includes:
- A solid base made of steel or a combination of steel and concrete, with a mass of no less than 500 kg, ensuring that no part of the base and headform mounting assembly has a resonant frequency that could affect the measurements.
- A headform compliant with the EN 960:2006 standard, positioned so that the impact axis coincides with those of the force transducer and striker.
- A steel striker with a mass of 5 kg, featuring either a hemispherical striking face with a 50 mm radius or a flat striking face with a 130 mm diameter, positioned above the headform so that its central axis coincides with the central vertical axis of the force transducer. Means shall be provided for the striker to be dropped in either free or guided fall*.
- A non-inertial force transducer, which shall be firmly attached to the base and arranged so that its sensitive axis coincides with the center of the striker. The transducer shall be capable of withstanding a maximum compressive force of 100 kN without damage.
- A guidance system ensuring that the striker falls on to the required impact point with an impact speed of no less than 95 % of that which would theoretically be obtained for a free fall.
- A device to measure the striker's speed at a distance of no more than 60 mm prior to impact, with an accuracy of ± 1%.
Testing the shock absorption of a mountaineering helmet according to the EN 12492 standard.
A 5 kg hemispherical striker is dropped from a height of 2 meters onto the top/crown of the helmet. The impact force is measured by a sensor positioned at the base of the headform.
Source: sciencedirect.com
A 5 kg hemispherical striker is dropped from a height of 2 meters onto the top/crown of the helmet. The impact force is measured by a sensor positioned at the base of the headform.
Source: sciencedirect.com
Although the maximum load threshold of 10 kN (about 1 ton) might seem disturbing, it's important to note that EN 12492 standard tests are conducted on a rigidly mounted headform, which does not account for the dynamics of the human body. In real-world scenarios, the load experienced would be lower, similar to how a climber falling on a dynamic rope endures less force compared to the loads recorded during laboratory tests on a steel dummy.
MIPS
It's quite a pity that the EN 12492:2012 standard does not account for rotational motion, resulting from oblique impacts on a helmet and serving as a common cause of brain injuries. However, the Mips® Safety System, found in some higher-tier mountaineering helmets, helps mitigate the effects of such impacts. MIPS stands for Multi-Directional Impact Protection System and consists of an additional low-friction layer designed to move slightly inside the helmet, thus redirecting forces away from the wearer's head. You can easily identify the presence of the Mips system by checking the price tag looking inside the helmet for the distinctive yellow insert.
The Mips® Safety System and its benefits in the context of mountaineering helmets.
Source: Mammut
Source: Mammut
Petzl Top & Side Protection
A careful reader has definitely noticed that the EN 12492 requirements for shock absorption on the front, back, and sides of a mountaineering helmet are less stringent than those for the top. And since it’s not always possible to catch a falling rock directly on the top of the helmet, this raises some concerns... Fortunately, initiatives like Petzl's "Top and Side Protection" aim to address this issue. This internal quality standard, introduced voluntarily by the French company, is designed to enhance the safety of its products (and, of course, boost some sales). It involves a similar shock absorption test to that in EN 12492, but with the weight dropped at a 90° angle rather than 60°, impacting the lower third of the helmet. While it may not be a radical innovation, it is certainly useful and commendable!
Petzl's "Top and Side Protection" additional in-house energy absorption testing protocol is designed to enhance the protection of climbing and mountaineering helmets against front, rear, and sides impacts.
Source: petzl.com
Source: petzl.com
Resistance to Penetration
Principle: To test a mountaineering helmet for resistance to penetration, a specified striker is dropped with a specified amount of energy onto a helmet fitted to a rigidly mounted test block. Note is taken of whether or not contact has been made between the striker and the test block.
This test assesses how effectively the helmet protects the head from impacts with sharp objects.
Standard Requirement: When a helmet is tested on two points of impact that are at least 50 mm apart, there must be no contact between the 3 kg conical striker and the headform, for a drop height of 1 meter.
This test assesses how effectively the helmet protects the head from impacts with sharp objects.
Standard Requirement: When a helmet is tested on two points of impact that are at least 50 mm apart, there must be no contact between the 3 kg conical striker and the headform, for a drop height of 1 meter.
Testing the resistance to penetration of a mountaineering helmet according to the EN 12492:2012 standard.
Source: edelrid.com
Source: edelrid.com
Test Procedure: Within 2 minutes of removal from thermal conditioning chamber, the helmet is fitted onto the test block and secured using the restraining system. Then, the striker is allowed to fall onto the 100 mm diameter area centered on the top of the helmet. It is observed whether contact is made between the striker and the test block or whether the surface of the soft metal insert in the test block is visibly damaged. If necessary, the surface of the insert is restored before proceeding. The second drop is made in the same area but at least 50 mm away from the point of the first impact.
The Testing Apparatus mirrors the one described in the previous section (see “Shock Absorption”), with the exception that:
angle of point: 60°;
radius of point: 0,5 ± 0,1 mm;
minimum height of cone: 40 мм;
hardness of tip: 50 - 45 HRC.
The Testing Apparatus mirrors the one described in the previous section (see “Shock Absorption”), with the exception that:
- The conical striker has the following characteristics:
angle of point: 60°;
radius of point: 0,5 ± 0,1 mm;
minimum height of cone: 40 мм;
hardness of tip: 50 - 45 HRC.
- Instead of using the EN 960 headform, a hemispherical test block mounted on a rigid support is employed. It is made of hardwood and features a soft metal insert located at the top of its central vertical axis. Elasticated restraining straps are provided to assist in retaining the helmet in position during the test. They should be such as not to affect the correct performance of the test.
A hardwood test block used for testing the resistance to penetration of mountaineering helmets according to the EN 12492:2012 standard.
Source: cadexinc.com
Source: cadexinc.com
This test does not reveal the potential consequences for the helmet and the user's head in the event of a fall of/on a sharp object impacting the side, rear, or front of the helmet, which is generally more likely than a direct impact on the top of the helmet.
An example of conical 3 kg striker used for testing helmet resistance to penetration.
Source: uvex-safety.com
Source: uvex-safety.com
Video of penetration resistance and shock absorption tests for EN 397 industrial safety helmets. The requirements of this standard are similar to those of the EN 12492 standard discussed here and are provided for illustrative purposes.
Retention System Strength
Principle: A helmet is supported on a headform and a specified varying force is applied to the retention system via an "artificial jaw" apparatus. The elongation as well as the ultimate tensile strength of the system is measured.
Standard Requirement: The maximum elongation of the retention system under a force of 500 N (~50 kg) must not exceed 25 mm.
Compliance with this standard ensures that the helmet will not come off the climber, even in the event of strong and multiple impacts, such as during a prolonged fall down a slope.
Standard Requirement: The maximum elongation of the retention system under a force of 500 N (~50 kg) must not exceed 25 mm.
Compliance with this standard ensures that the helmet will not come off the climber, even in the event of strong and multiple impacts, such as during a prolonged fall down a slope.
Testing the strength of a mountaineering helmet retention system according to the EN 12492:2012 standard.
Source: edelrid.com
Source: edelrid.com
Test Procedure: The helmet is mounted on the appropriate headform and the chinstrap is secured around the artificial jaw. An initial force of 30 N is applied to ensure that the fastening device is correctly tightened, and the position of the load bearing spindle (P0) is noted to the nearest mm. Then the force is increased linearly over a period of 30 seconds up to 500 N and maintained for an additional 120 seconds. The new position of of the load-bearing spindle (P1) is noted, and the elongation of the retention system is calculated as the difference between positions P0 and P1. Finally, the force is increased linearly at a rate of 500 N/min until the artificial jaw is released due to failure of the retention system. The maximum force measured during the test and the mode of failure of the retention system is recorded, for information only.
Mountaineering helmet retention system (chin strap) strength requirements according to the EN 12492:2012 standard.
Source: theuiaa.org
Source: theuiaa.org
Test Apparatus includes:
- A test headform.
- A rigid structure to support the headform.
- An artificial jaw comprised of two rigid cylindrical rollers of diameter 12,5 mm, with their longitudinal axes separated by 75 mm.
- A means of applying a known variable force to the artificial jaw.
- A means of measuring the displacement of the artificial jaw.
Retention System Effectiveness
Principle: The helmet is mounted on a test headform and then subjected to a sudden force applied at the front and rear edge of the helmet, tending to rotate it on the headform. The degree of any rotation is observed.
Standard Requirement: When a helmet is tested for the front way and rear way tests, it shall not come off the headform, thereby confirming the effectiveness of the retention system.
Standard Requirement: When a helmet is tested for the front way and rear way tests, it shall not come off the headform, thereby confirming the effectiveness of the retention system.
Testing the retention system effectiveness of a mountaineering helmet according to the EN 12492:2012 standard.
Source: edelrid.com
Source: edelrid.com
Test Procedure: A horizontal datum line is marked on the outside of the helmet, which is then fitted according to the manufacturer’s instructions onto the smallest available headform suitable for the helmet size. The retention system is adjusted as tight as possible by hand. Next, a hook is attached over the front/rear edge of the helmet at the center, with a wire arranged to pass over the helmet's longitudinal vertical median plane. A falling mass, connected to the helmet via the wire and hook, is then dropped from a height of 175 mm. It is observed whether the helmet comes off the headform completely. If it does not, the angle of rotation is measured to the nearest degree, which is the angle between the marked datum line on the helmet and the horizontal.
Dorsal roll off test (aka slippage test) of a mountaineering helmet according to the EN 12492:2012 standard.
Source: theuiaa.org
Source: theuiaa.org
Test Apparatus includes:
- A test headform.
- A rigid base to support the headform.
- A 10 kg falling mass.
- A guidance system with a total mass of 3 kg used to ensure that the falling mass is dropped in a guided fall with an impact speed of no less than 95% of the theoretical free-fall speed. The guidance system consists of a twisted steel wire with a minimum diameter of 3 mm, running over a 100 mm diameter pulley. The system ends with a metal end stop on the falling mass side and a hook with a nominal width of 25 mm on the helmet side.
- A means to measure the speed of the falling mass at a distance of no more than 60 mm prior to impact, with an accuracy of ± 1%.
Mountaineering Helmet Marking and Labelling Requirements
Each mountaineering/climbing helmet must be marked in a way that ensures the following information is easily legible by the user and likely to remain legible throughout the helmet's lifespan:
Additionally, a label must be attached to each helmet offered to sales, providing the following instructions:
- The number of the European Standard – EN 12492.
- The name or trademark of the manufacturer and/or his authorized representative.
- The designation of the model.
- The year and quarter of manufacture.
- The size or size range (in cm).
Additionally, a label must be attached to each helmet offered to sales, providing the following instructions:
- The designation “Helmet for mountaineers”.
- For adequate protection this helmet has to fit or to be adjusted to the size of the user’s head.
- The helmet is made to absorb the energy of a blow by partial destruction or damage, and even though such damage may not be readily apparent, any helmet subjected to severe impact should be replaced.
- The attention of the users is also drawn to the damage of modifying or removing any of the original component parts of the helmet, other than as recommended by the helmet manufacturer. Helmets should not be adapted for the purpose of fitting attachments in any way not recommended by the helmet manufacturer.
- Do not apply paint, solvents, adhesives or self-adhesive labels, except in accordance with instructions from the helmet manufacturer.
- For cleaning, maintenance or disinfection, use only substances that have no adverse effect on the helmet and are not known to be likely to have any adverse effect upon the wearer, when applied in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions and information.
Marking and Labeling on the Petzl 'Picchu' children’s climbing helmet.
Note that this helmet not only carries the EN 12492 standard marking but also conforms to EN 1078 and UIAA standards.
Source: climbonequipment.com
Note that this helmet not only carries the EN 12492 standard marking but also conforms to EN 1078 and UIAA standards.
Source: climbonequipment.com
Except for a few very specific technical details and minor requirements, that concludes the overview of the EN 12492:2012 standard.
Mountaineering helmets that have successfully passed all the aforementioned performance tests and design requirements in a third-party accredited laboratory are allowed to bear the 'CE' marking and are authorized for sale within the European Union.
Now, let's briefly explore the UIAA-106 standard and explain how a single helmet can comply with multiple standards.
Mountaineering helmets that have successfully passed all the aforementioned performance tests and design requirements in a third-party accredited laboratory are allowed to bear the 'CE' marking and are authorized for sale within the European Union.
Now, let's briefly explore the UIAA-106 standard and explain how a single helmet can comply with multiple standards.
UIAA 106
UIAA 106, specifically UIAA 106_V3_2018, is the standard set by the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation for the quality of climbing and mountaineering helmets. And it is quite straightforward.
The helmet must meet all the requirements of the EN 12492 standard (which we’ve just covered) with one exception: "The force transmitted to the headform as a result of the impact from the falling mass shall not exceed 8 kN for the vertical, side, front, and rear impact tests."
And that’s it. The one and only difference is that during shock absorption tests, conducted in the same manner as in EN 12492, the load on the headform must not exceed 8 kN (as opposed to 10 kN in EN 12492).
The helmet must meet all the requirements of the EN 12492 standard (which we’ve just covered) with one exception: "The force transmitted to the headform as a result of the impact from the falling mass shall not exceed 8 kN for the vertical, side, front, and rear impact tests."
And that’s it. The one and only difference is that during shock absorption tests, conducted in the same manner as in EN 12492, the load on the headform must not exceed 8 kN (as opposed to 10 kN in EN 12492).
Requirements of the EN 12492:2012 and UIAA 106.V3:2018 standards for climbing and mountaineering helmets.
The only difference is that the UIAA imposes a stricter impact force requirement during the energy absorption test: ≤8 kN, compared to ≤10 kN in EN 12492.
Source: theuiaa.org
The only difference is that the UIAA imposes a stricter impact force requirement during the energy absorption test: ≤8 kN, compared to ≤10 kN in EN 12492.
Source: theuiaa.org
After successfully passing these tests in one of the UIAA accredited labs and paying an annual fee, the manufacturer is granted the right to display the UIAA logo on their helmets.
UIAA-106 is a prestigious standard, but its non-mandatory status, combined with the additional financial investment required for certification (the process of proving that the equipment meets certain standards), means it does not appear on every climbing helmet. And while the difference from the EN 12492 standard might seem minimal, it does actually enhance safety, making the UIAA logo on helmet's label quite desirable.
UIAA-106 is a prestigious standard, but its non-mandatory status, combined with the additional financial investment required for certification (the process of proving that the equipment meets certain standards), means it does not appear on every climbing helmet. And while the difference from the EN 12492 standard might seem minimal, it does actually enhance safety, making the UIAA logo on helmet's label quite desirable.
Helmets with Multiple Certifications
Helmets can be certified to multiple standards. One reason why manufacturers can opt for such a cost- and time-consuming approach is to meet the legal requirements of different jurisdictions and expand the helmet’s market appeal. Another reason is to create an all-around helmet for individuals who engage in various activities and prefer a versatile tool, often referred to as dual-certified, triple-certified, multi-certified, multi-purpose, or multi-sport. While this definitely increases the cost of such helmets, it also provides superior protection through extensive testing for various hazards. For example, in addition to EN 12492 and UIAA 106 mountaineering standards, helmets can also comply with:
Multiple certifications are valuable not only for safety and usability but also for meeting formal requirements and certain sports regulations. For example, individuals wishing to participate in official ski mountaineering competitions organized by the International Ski Mountaineering Federation (ISMF) must have a helmet certified to both EN 12492 and EN 1077 (Class B).
- EN 397 – European standard for industrial safety helmets.
- EN 1077 – European standard for helmets for alpine skiers and snowboarders.
- EN 1078 – European standard for helmets for pedal cyclists and for users of skateboards and roller skates.
- ANSI/ISEA Z89.1 – American standard for industrial head protection.
- and many others...
Multiple certifications are valuable not only for safety and usability but also for meeting formal requirements and certain sports regulations. For example, individuals wishing to participate in official ski mountaineering competitions organized by the International Ski Mountaineering Federation (ISMF) must have a helmet certified to both EN 12492 and EN 1077 (Class B).
One of the lightest multisport helmets available, the Grivel 'Duetto' (weighing just 215 g), is certified to EN 12492, EN 1077/B, and UIAA 106 standards, making it suitable for a range of activities, including rock climbing and ski mountaineering.
Source: grivel.com
Source: grivel.com
It's interesting that some of the standards mentioned have mutually exclusive requirements, so to create a truly universal helmet, manufacturers must employ some special tactics. Often, the design is made modular, allowing the helmet to be adapted for different tasks. For example, helmets like the Petzl 'Vertex Vent,' which we've already mentioned in this article, feature ventilation shutters and adjustable chinstrap strength. This flexibility allows the helmet to be converted from an industrial one, to a sport-climbing helmet, so that after a productive rope access week, you could spend some time at the crag with your favorite bucket. Or at the very least, you might feel cool having that opportunity :)
And that concludes our not-brief-at-all review of the EN 12492 and UIAA 106 climbing and mountaineering helmet standards. I hope this topic has been of interest to more than just me :)
But beware – this is just a pause! And a wealth of information is waiting to be unleashed in future materials...
Wear helmets and don’t lose your head!
But beware – this is just a pause! And a wealth of information is waiting to be unleashed in future materials...
Wear helmets and don’t lose your head!
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