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Application of Pulleys in Climbing and Mountaineering
Application of Pulleys in Climbing and Mountaineering
Image from: avalancheacademy.com
Written in December 2023.
The relevance of information might change over time.
Written in December 2023.
The relevance of information might change over time.
Most mountaineers do not consider pulleys to be an essential part of their rack. Lightpackers try to avoid the extra weight, large groups tend to rely on the strength of their hands, and beginners may not even be aware of their existence. But in reality, there are numerous reasons to include pulleys in one's arsenal, and several situations where it is quite crucial. In this article, we will explore five ways to use pulleys in climbing and mountaineering, and provide a couple of recommendations for choosing optimal models for each scenario.
By the way, if you want to learn more about the types and differences of pulleys in general, welcome to the Pulleys: Classification & Characteristics article.
By the way, if you want to learn more about the types and differences of pulleys in general, welcome to the Pulleys: Classification & Characteristics article.
Pulleys for Crevasse Rescue
Straight to action, precisely speaking – to a crevasse!
Glacier crevasses pose a serious threat to mountaineers. These icy cracks, several meters wide and tens of meters deep, are often hidden from climbers' eyes beneath thin layers of snow. Mindful of this danger, climbers secure themselves by roping up in teams. A rope team typically consists of 2 to 5 climbers, connected by a single rope at specific intervals. In the event of someone falling into a crevasse, the remaining members of the rope team can stop the fall using ice axes, their own body weight, and the friction of the rope against the crevasse's edge. However, arresting the slip is only half the battle; the next challenge is to retrieve the fallen climber. The course of events from this point onward can vary widely.
It is fortunate if the fallen climber is conscious, uninjured, and has some foothold, rather than dangling like a sack in the cold void, drenched from above by streams of meltwater. In most such instances, the collective efforts of the team, using the "three-two-one" hand-pulling method, swiftly bring the unfortunate climber back to the surface. Then, with the assistance of hot tea, spirits are restored, and the group can resume their journey. However, the situation becomes much more challenging if the fallen individual is unresponsive, injured, burdened with a heavy backpack, and the “upper” team consists of only two individuals (or even one), neither of whom is Hercules. This is where pulleys come to the rescue, significantly simplifying and speeding up the rescue process. And speed in such a situation can make a big difference…
Glacier crevasses pose a serious threat to mountaineers. These icy cracks, several meters wide and tens of meters deep, are often hidden from climbers' eyes beneath thin layers of snow. Mindful of this danger, climbers secure themselves by roping up in teams. A rope team typically consists of 2 to 5 climbers, connected by a single rope at specific intervals. In the event of someone falling into a crevasse, the remaining members of the rope team can stop the fall using ice axes, their own body weight, and the friction of the rope against the crevasse's edge. However, arresting the slip is only half the battle; the next challenge is to retrieve the fallen climber. The course of events from this point onward can vary widely.
It is fortunate if the fallen climber is conscious, uninjured, and has some foothold, rather than dangling like a sack in the cold void, drenched from above by streams of meltwater. In most such instances, the collective efforts of the team, using the "three-two-one" hand-pulling method, swiftly bring the unfortunate climber back to the surface. Then, with the assistance of hot tea, spirits are restored, and the group can resume their journey. However, the situation becomes much more challenging if the fallen individual is unresponsive, injured, burdened with a heavy backpack, and the “upper” team consists of only two individuals (or even one), neither of whom is Hercules. This is where pulleys come to the rescue, significantly simplifying and speeding up the rescue process. And speed in such a situation can make a big difference…
Crevasse rescue training – retrieval of the injured climber.
Image from: cloudnineguides.com
In situations where the fallen party is unable to climb out on their own, and the efforts to pull them out by hand prove insufficient, mountaineers turn to the organization of mechanical advantage systems, also known as pulley systems. These systems have the capability to multiply applied forces, making it possible to lift substantial loads with less effort.
The key factor that makes any pulley system truly effective is the minimum coefficient of friction. Quality modern pulleys can achieve efficiency in the range of 90-95%. In contrast, even the most rounded carabiner with the smoothest profile may only preserve around 50% of the applied effort after the rope passes through it. Therefore, in mountain scenarios with limited manpower, a heavy casualty, and challenging circumstances, the criteria for selecting a pulley are defined by a combination of high efficiency and low weight.
To enhance efficiency, it is advisable to choose pulleys equipped with ball bearings, as they outperform those with bushings, albeit at a higher cost. The second recommendation is to look for prusik-minding pulleys. PMPs feature low-profile side plates optimized for working with friction hitches, which are essential to prevent the rope from sliding back.
To enhance efficiency, it is advisable to choose pulleys equipped with ball bearings, as they outperform those with bushings, albeit at a higher cost. The second recommendation is to look for prusik-minding pulleys. PMPs feature low-profile side plates optimized for working with friction hitches, which are essential to prevent the rope from sliding back.
Demonstration of how the Prusik friction hitch prevents the rope from sliding back. Also, note how the prusik-minding side plates block the hitch from being pulled into the pulley.
Video from: SMC Gear
Next, give preference to pulleys with floating side plates. This design is advantageous over fixed side plates as it allows the pulley to pair well with carabiners of any shape. Finally, when it comes to saving grams, try acquiring the lightest and most compact aluminum pulley. There is no need to lean towards extremes by choosing the plastic variants. While the difference in weight may not be that substantial, their efficiency will noticeably lag behind.
This is what a good pulley looks like! However, the most functional devices for crevasse rescue is undeniably the emergency progress-capture pulleys. This type combines an efficient pulley with a rope clamping mechanism, all in a compact design. You just thread the rope through, engage the clamp, and you're ready to go! No more hastily tying friction hitches with cold hands or resorting to hand ascenders, which, by the way, are much handier for pulling the rope.
Progress-Capture Pulleys for Rope Ascend and Self-Rescue
Continuing the topic of crevasses and progress-capture pulleys, it's worth noting that the latter can be useful not only for pulling up others but also for ascending a rope in self-rescue. For instance, you can use your PCP as a rope clamp, transferring the load onto it, thereby replacing a jumar or a friction hitch. And even if you are comfortable with tying hitches, having such a small and light 'spare ascender' is unlikely to be a significant hindrance but can serve as a valuable backup in case of losing your primary equipment.
You might say, "Rescuing an injured comrade is a valid argument, but do I really need to buy a progress-capture pulley just because there's a chance of falling into a crevasse? It may never happen, and, to be honest, I personally prefer the warm rocks!" Don't worry, pulleys can find use beyond crevasses! The same techniques of rope ascending with progress-capture pulleys or setting pulley systems for lifting up the fallen are relevant not only for snow and ice terrain but also for rocky landscapes. Speaking of rocks...
Pulleys for Hauling
Hauling on big walls.
Images from: stephdavis.co, reddit.com
Have you ever had to pull up heavy loads? Found yourself sweating, scooping up the cargo rope with upward hand movements, and trying to straighten up and relax your back afterward? Did you know there's another, easier way!? All you need to do is pass the cargo rope through a pulley positioned above your head. This way, you can pull the rope downward and use your body as a counterweight, making the task much easier. Give it a try – you'll like it! Even better, use a progress-capture pulley. Then, at any moment, you can release your hands to catch your breath or take an epic selfie, without risking dropping the load and having to start the whole process again.
In short, for regular lifts or irregularly heavy loads, it's worthwhile to have a pulley.
In short, for regular lifts or irregularly heavy loads, it's worthwhile to have a pulley.
The choice of the specific pulley for this case will depend on the amount of hauling. The more your style resembles big-wall climbing, the more justified it is to prefer a mid-sized but highly efficient progress-capture pulley, perhaps even a couple of them, unless your goal is to ascend rather than give your biceps a good workout.
For big walls, pulleys with side plates' lock will be particularly relevant. This design allows you to thread the rope without removing the pulley from the carabiner and anchor point, reducing the risk of dropping it down a hundred-meter wall.
For big walls, pulleys with side plates' lock will be particularly relevant. This design allows you to thread the rope without removing the pulley from the carabiner and anchor point, reducing the risk of dropping it down a hundred-meter wall.
In the following video, three pulleys are used to lift a haul bag, with two of them being part of a pulley system assembled using a separate rope. That's when you prioritize comfort over weight-saving!
Pulleys for Setting and Moving on a Tyrolean Traverse
Sometimes, turbulent mountain rivers impede the climbers' path. When the current is so strong that it knocks you off your feet and crossing it with all the gear seems impossible, only one option remains… well, technically two: either retreat or establish a tyrolean traverse using mechanical advantage systems. For this, the strongest member of the group, lightly equipped and secured with a rope, crosses to the other side of the river and anchors the rope. Afterward, the main part of the group, using a pulley system, tightens the rope and begins transporting gear and sliding themselves to the other side.
A tyrolean traverse over a river in Patagonia. Pulleys are used to tension the rope and move people and cargo from one side to another.
Image from: andeantrails.co.uk
A large group could manage the situation with just carabiners and prusiks. However, having a couple of pulleys in reserve can significantly reduce the amount of sweat spilled and the likelihood of getting wet due to the sagging rope. Moreover, sliding back and forth on a pulley across the tyrolean will be much faster and easier than doing so on a carabiner. Needless to say, if the group is small, having pulleys for the mechanical advantage system is a must-have.
A competition participant is getting ready to secure himself onto a pulley for a tyrolean traverse.
Image from: ekaterinburg-tr.gazprom.ru
When selecting a specific pulley model, there is maximum freedom here. Unlike situations involving rescuing someone from a crevasse, there's no need to insist on maximum efficiency. Therefore, even basic, small pulleys with bushings will suffice for tensioning the tyrolean.
Pulleys for Reducing Rope Drag Friction
As mentioned earlier, pulleys assist in reducing friction. However, friction poses a challenge for climbers not only in the context of pulley systems and load hauling but also in dealing with heavy rope drag caused by rope redirects in quickdraws. On certain routes, this issue can become a real headache and even pose a danger for the leader.
The trajectory of the rope from the belayer to the leader. The more redirects in the rope, the higher the friction, making it increasingly challenging for the leader to pull the rope.
Image from: outdooractive.com
The first consideration in addressing this issue is carefully choosing a place for protection and optimizing the climbing trajectory. Extending runners at points of significant rope bends is another option. However, there is an additional solution – carabiners with built-in pulleys, such as the DMM Revolver. This model is effective in combating friction while remaining compact and closely resembling a standard quickdraw carabiner.
Certainly, there's no need to acquire a complete set of runners with Revolver carabiners, but having one or two of such pulley-carabiners could significantly assist both in climbing and, if necessary, in the already mentioned tasks of hauling loads and organizing pulley systems.
Imagine the joy the leader would experience when confronted with rope drag while climbing a route like this...
Image from: alpinist.com
As you can see, there are plenty of applications for such a small device like a pulley. Yes, you won't use on a everyday basis. Which, by the way, is probably a good sign :) But finding yourself in certain situations without this small, versatile piece of gear would be quite disappointing, if not downright unfortunate.
Progress-capture pulley various applications.
Image from: petzl.com
By the way, these are not all the scenarios of using pulleys in climbing! Though, some of the unmentioned cases are quite controversial. For instance, some use aggressively toothed progress-capture pulleys to belay a second, while others use them for self-belay during solo climbing… But let's save those for future stories :)
5.12.2023
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