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Pulleys: Classification & Characteristics

Pulleys: Classification & Characteristics
Climbing pulley

Image from: notchequipment.com

Written in December 2023.

The relevance of information might change over time.

Written in December 2023.

The relevance of information might change over time.

Pulley is a simple device consisting of a grooved wheel that rotates on an axis, and through which a rope or cable is threaded.

Pulleys are used in various fields such as:
  • Climbing, slacklining, ziplining;
  • Construction, work at heights;
  • Rescue operations;
  • Yachting, and etc.

And are utilized for:
The construction parts common to all types of pulleys include:
  • Axis
  • Sheave (wheel)
  • Side plates
  • Attachment point
Pulley construction

One of the most common block designs exemplified by the Machined Pulley model from Rock Exotica.

Image from: rockexotica.com

This is what unites all blocks. So, what sets them apart?

Pulley Classification

Number of Sheaves

By the number of sheaves, pulleys can be categorized as:
  • Single
  • Double
  • Triple, and so on.
Single pulleys excel in versatility, as two of them can replace a double pulley, and three of them can substitute a triple sheave pulley, and so forth. However, the reverse may not hold true. If you try to use only one of the two sheaves of a double pulley, the entire construction may become misaligned due to uneven load distribution, affecting the pulley's efficiency and possibly compromising safety. On the other hand, when a double pulley is used as intended, its solid design offers advantages in terms of weight and ease of use. You will not only benefit from using one connector instead of two but also won't have to worry about the system's alignment and compatibility.
Climbing Technology Pulleys

Single, double, and triple pulley from Climbing Technology.

Image from: climbingtechnology.com

Sheave Arrangement

Based on the sheave arrangement, pulleys can be divided into:
  • Standard pulleys, where the sheaves are positioned in parallel, and
  • Transport pulleys (tyrolean pulleys, tandem pulleys, trolleys, carriages), where the sheaves are arranged in a single line.
Transport pulleys are specifically designed for movement along horizontal and inclined fixed ropes or cables. They are commonly used in applications such as zip lines, adventure parks, tyrolean traverses, and tensioned highlines. Equipped with two or more sheaves arranged in a single line, transport pulleys provide stability and enable high-speed movement, reaching speeds of up to 30 m/s. Advanced recreational models (trolleys) often feature special attachment systems, allowing quick installation to the rope or cable without the need for carabiners and ensuring reliable protection against accidental opening. In addition, trolleys are frequently equipped with plastic protectors to prevent users from inadvertently placing their fingers in the moving parts.
Some transport pulleys find application beyond adventure parks and extreme recreation. Sophisticated models, such as the Petzl Reeve or DMM Keanu, are widely utilized in rigging and rescue operations. These carriage pulleys stand out with multiple attachment points and enhanced strength, allowing for the construction of complex lifting and moving systems for casualties and heavy loads.

Sheave Design

By the sheave design, pulleys can be classified into:
  • Bi-directional pulleys (two-directional, two-way pulleys)
  • Uni-directional pulleys (one-directional, one-way pulleys)

Bi-directional pulleys are the standard ones, with sheaves freely rotating clockwise and counterclockwise.

The situation is different with uni-directional pulleys. Consider the Spin L1D pulley from Petzl as an example. In this model, the sheave rotates only in one direction – think of it as a 'hauling mode.' However, during lowering, the sheave remains stationary. This, combined with the sheave's faceted design, creates additional friction, allowing the pulley to hold or lower heavy loads with half the effort.

Side Plates Design

According to the side plates design pulleys can be divided into:
  • Pulleys with fixed side plates
  • Pulleys with swinging (pivoting, moving) side plates
Fixed plate pulleys are generally more robust compared to models with swinging side plates, but they may slightly lag behind the latter in terms of versatility. This is because the attachment eyelets on fixed side plates are spaced wider, limiting the choice of available carabiners and other connectors. For instance, such pulleys may not pair well with D-shaped carabiners, favoring ovals and pear-shaped ones.
  • Prusik Minding Pulleys
Prusik-minding pulleys (PMPs) are models with extended side plates designed to prevent friction hitches, such as Prusik, from entering the sheave and interfering with the pulley's operation. These hitches work in tandem with the PMP for progress capture, effectively stopping the rope from sliding backward.
  • Button Locking Pulleys
Premium pulleys often feature a double or triple-action locking mechanism on the side plates, allowing them to be opened to load the rope without disconnecting the pulley from the anchor.

Main Attachment Point Design

In terms of the main attachment point design, there are:

  • Pulleys with an Eyelet Main Attachment Point
This is the classic design that differs only in the eyelet's geometry and size. For greater versatility, models capable of accommodating multiple carabiners are preferable.
CAMP Tethys Pro prusik-minding pulley, accommodating several carabiners

CAMP Tethys Pro prusik-minding pulley features the attachment point in the form of a eyelet. Despite its relatively small size, it can easily accommodate a pair of carabiners.

Image from: camp.it

  • Pulleys with a Bollard Main Attachment Point
Pulleys equipped with an attachment bollard are most commonly used when increased strength is required. Often referred to as rigging blocks, these are widely employed to catch fragments of falling trunks and branches during tree removal. It's important to note that attachment bollards assume direct sling connection without the use of carabiners or other connectors.

The bollard attachment point can be:
- Fixed
- Openable: screw-style / spring-style.
  • Swivel Pulleys
A swivel is a connecting element between two parts of a mechanism that allows them to rotate relative to each other around a single axis. In pulleys, a swivel is integrated between the main attachment point and the wheel, allowing the device to adjust to the direction of the applied load and preventing the rope from twisting.
Swivel pulley

Rock Exotica 'Omni-Block' swivel pulley.

Image from: Gardenforst

The attachment point of the swivel pulleys can take the form of:
  • Eyelet: fixed or openable (aka gated)
  • Shackle
  • Carabiner
An openable attachment point on the swivel pulley enables direct connection to other devices, eliminating the need for carabiners, slings, or other connectors. This helps reduce the overall dimensions of the system and is beneficial, for example, when working with rigging plates.
Another advantage of pulleys with an integrated swivel is that the attachment eyelet of such models can accommodate multiple carabiners and allows direct connection of ropes and slings.
Connector options for swivel pulleys

The attachment eyelet of most swivel pulleys accepts multiple carabiners and allows direct tie-in of textile connectors.

Image from: petzl.com

Pulleys with Multiple Attachment Points

Some models may feature more than one attachment point. The most common example is pulleys with an additional eyelet, also known as a becket, located beneath the pulley wheel. This point is primarily utilized for securing the end of the rope when setting up pulley systems. If the becket has sufficient thickness and curvature, the rope can be tied directly to it; otherwise, a carabiner, quick link, or other metal connector is used. The size of the becket hole does matter; a wider hole accommodates more connector options, while a shorter hole allows the pulleys in a system to be brought closer together, slightly enhancing overall efficiency.
There are also triple attachment pulleys, popular among professionals for their design versatility. For example, arborists use this type of pulleys for ascending and descending in the Moving Rope System (MRS) technique. Another application lies in rescue operations, where the side holes of the triple attachment pulley are utilized to move the device along a tyrolean using the corresponding guiding ropes.

Progress Capture Pulleys

Some pulleys come with an integrated cam brake that allows them to lock the rope in the reverse direction without the need for additional prusik hitches or separate devices. These are called "progress capture pulleys" (PCP).

Examples of PCPs:
- Petzl Pro Traxion
- Edelrid Spoc
- CAMP Turbolock
- Climbing Technology Sneak Peek Cric
- ISC Double Progress Capture Pulley
With the exception of the ultra-compact Petzl Nano Traxion model, progress capture pulleys can be used as regular two-way pulleys by "disabling" the progress capture function.
  • Releasable Progress Capture Pulleys
A small number of double progress capture pulleys have handles for releasing the rope even under load.
When a release handle is added to a single progress capture pulley, the resulting piece of gear becomes a truly multi-purpose device suitable not only for efficient hauling and controlled lowering but also for smooth descents, ascents, and belaying. However, this pleasure comes with a very high price tag.

Examples:
- Petzl Maestro
- CMC Clutch
- CMC MPD

Specialized Pulleys

  • Knot-Passing Pulleys
These are large-sized models, with a high clearance rope channel that allows the passage of joining knots (bends) or a pair of ropes simultaneously. The first model, "Kootenay," developed by the American company Rock Exotica in the late 80s, served as a prototype for most modern counterparts, and its name became synonymous with this type of pulleys.
  • Pulleys for Cableway Evacuation
Designed for moving along steel cables with a diameter of up to ~60 mm during the evacuation of persons from cableways, these pulleys are highly specialized, and therefore, their number can be counted on one hand.
  • Webbing Pulleys
This is a vast category of pulleys, the width of sheaves or number of rollers of which is optimized for working with webbing (tape). The most advanced models are produced primarily for slacklining and are generally designed for webbings up to 26 mm in width. Similar to rope pulleys, here you can find models with fixed and swinging side plates, on bushings and ball bearings, and so on.

Integrated Pulleys

  • Hand Ascenders with Integrated Pulleys
As the name suggests, these pulleys are built into the construction of hand ascenders (jumars). They are used for short ascents in rope access application. The essence of the design lies in its compactness and weight, surpassing a similar combination of a hand ascender + carabiner + pulley or a hand ascender + pulley-carabiner (see below).
  • Pulley-Carabiners
These are essentially carabiners with integrated pulleys. The sheaves can be either single or double, varying in size, but for all models, they are attached permanently and thus, can not be removed. Pulley-carabiners are used for short rope ascents when attached to hand ascenders, for setting up redirects and reducing rope drag, as well as for establishing mechanical advantage systems.
  • Webbing Pulley-Carabiners
Carabiners with built-in webbing pulleys are primarily manufactured by slackline brands for webbing width up to 26 mm. They are used for tensioning slacklines and for moving along the webbing on highlines.

More information about these models can be found in my article - "How to tension a slackline."

Integrable Pulleys

  • Carabiners with Integrable Pulleys
These involve two separate devices – a carabiner and a pulley – connected by screws and compression plates. The resulting construction is quite bulky but cost-effective. An important point is that pulleys of this type are compatible only with carabiners of a specific shape, so they often come pre-assembled. They are particularly valued by "sports tourists" in the post-Soviet space for quick attachment and movement along horizontal and inclined fixed ropes. They can also be used for moving along webbing.
  • Shackles with Integrable Pulleys
The most technologically advanced example is the UltraLink model from the Welsh company ISC. It features a steel omega shackle with a special aluminum pulley that can be installed on the shackle pin. With this pulley, the minimum breaking strength (MBS) of the entire construction increases from the already substantial 30 kN to 40 kN along the main axis. Another distinctive feature of ISC's models is the fast and secure 3-action pin locking mechanism. The company promotes the UltraLink primarily for tree climbing, although there are countless applications for these compact and strong shackle-pulleys.
  • Emergency Pulleys
The sole representative of this kind is the Petzl Ultralegere – a primitive plastic sheave that can be attached to a carabiner for use in emergency situations. However, it's advisable not to waste your money on it and instead, opt for a regular compact pulley. Because even when installed on a suitable oval carabiner, Ultralegere tends to cause more inconveniences than benefits, as the rope tends to slips off it all the time.

Pulley Systems

A pulley system, also known as block and tackle, is a mechanism comprising moving and fixed pulleys connected by a flexible link (rope, webbing, or cable). Its purpose is to provide mechanical advantage for lifting or pulling heavy objects.

A pulley system can be constructed from individual components such as pulleys, carabiners, rope, clamps, friction hitches, and more. Alternatively, it can take the form of a ready-made set/kit optimized for a specific task. The following discussion will focus on ready-made models from manufacturers.
  • Rescue Pulley Systems
Typically, these are 4:1 or 5:1 systems (depending on the anchor side), specifically designed for remote rescue operations. They are known for achieving a great balance between high efficiency, low weight, and a compact size. These types of mechanical advantage systems serve various purposes, including load transfer (e.g., pick-offs, knot passing), tensioning, redirecting, and position adjusting. Similar to standalone pulleys, the most advanced sets are equipped with built-in swivels and the ability to release the rope even under load.

Examples:
- Petzl Jag System
- Rock Exotica Aztek Kit
- Harken Wingman
  • Slackline Pulley Systems
The purpose of these pulley systems is to tension slackline webbing to very significant loads, sometimes exceeding 10 kN. To achieve this with minimal effort or even solo, especially in remote areas, a highly efficient and preferably lightweight system is necessary. That is why, in the slackline community, systems with a theoretical advantage of 15:1 (5:1 multiplied by 3:1) are considered standard, while the most powerful ones can achieve theoretical advantage numbers of 27:1 or even 45:1. Another distinctive feature is the relatively good efficiency of the integrated progress-capture mechanism that most ready-made slackline pulley systems possess.

And this is just a glimpse into the world of pulleys! Imagine the myriad of construction pulleys, yachting pulleys, and various other types not mentioned... Omg!

Pulleys Characteristics

In addition to the types and constructions discussed earlier, pulleys are characterized by:

Pulley Efficiency

Pulley efficiency is a measure of how effectively the device mitigates friction. The closer the value is to 100%, the better your efforts are transferred to the load.

Pulley efficiency depends on:
  • The type of device providing sheave rotation – whether it employs bushings or ball bearings—and the quality of these components.
  • The sheave diameter and its ratio to the diameter of the rope being used.
  • The stiffness of the rope.
Bushing
A bushing is a cylinder made of a specific material, typically bronze, through which the sheave rotates around the pulley's axis. Due to a significant portion of the inner surface of the bushing being in contact with the axis, achieving high efficiency and a low coefficient of friction is challenging. Therefore, pulleys with bushings are generally found in inexpensive models, with efficiency ranging from 70% to 80%.
Ball Bearings
Pulley sheaves equipped with sealed ball bearings exhibit significantly higher efficiency. In simplified terms, the design comprises a cavity filled with metal balls rotating between the inner and outer rings. The contact area of the balls is much smaller than that of the bushing, minimizing friction and enhancing pulley efficiency. The entire structure is sealed, preventing the entry of dirt and dust that could disrupt the operation of the ball bearings. The efficiency of such pulleys typically ranges from 90% to 95%.

Pulley Size and Weight

What effects can the size of a pulley have, aside from obvious factors like weight, compactness, and ease of transportation?

Let's break down the pulley into individual parts and assess the importance of the size of each:
  • Sheave Diameter: As a general rule, the larger the sheave diameter, the higher the efficiency. This is attributed to the reduction of bending stress in the rope.
  • Sheave Width along with the rope channel clearance affects the diameter of the rope the pulley can work with. Pulleys with larger dimensions in this regard, such as the Kootenay, can accommodate ropes with knots or multiple standard ropes simultaneously.
  • Main Attachment Point Size determines compatibility with different types and quantities of connectors.
  • Additional Attachment Eyelets Size is crucial in the context of interacting with various connecting elements. The thickness of the material and the curvature of the eyelet profile affect the possibility of tying-in textile connectors directly. In the case of an end rope becket, the shorter it is, the closer the pulleys can be brought together in pulley systems. While it may seem like a small detail, for those dealing with it constantly, it holds significant importance.

Pulley and Rope Compatibility

The diameter of the rope for which the pulley is designed is specified by the manufacturer and should not be exceeded. Even if one manages to fit a thicker rope in the pulley, the friction caused by the rope rubbing on the side plates could damage the rope or, at the very least, negate all the efficiency.

Interestingly, the reverse situation is also possible. On some simple models, there might be a certain gap between the sheave and the inner part of the side plates. If you try to pass a thin cord through such pulleys against the manufacturer's instructions, there's a chance it might slip off the sheave into such a 'groove,' and... who knows what could happen.
Petzl Fixe pulley

The Petzl Fixe pulley is a vivid example of a model with wide gaps between the sheave and the side plates. The manufacturer explicitly states that this pulley should only be used with the specified rope diameters, ranging from 7 to 13 mm.

Image from: sestogrado.it

Pulley Strength

This one is simple. All operations must be conducted within the manufacturer's specified working load limit (WLL) or safe working load (SWL).

Relying on minimum breaking strength (MBS) is possible only as a last resort in emergency situations. By default exceeding the WLL is grounds for discarding the pulley (as well as any other device) because the product may have incurred damage not visible to the naked eye but significant for future consequences.

Special attention should be paid to the working loads on pulleys with multiple sheaves since manufacturers often indicate the total load for all sheaves, i.e., those engaged simultaneously. If the sheaves are used individually, the WLL is lower.

Pulley Material

While the material of the side plates is of secondary importance, the material of the sheave is crucial to consider. For instance, a plastic sheave will predictably be less durable than an aluminum one, and an aluminum sheave will be less wear-resistant than a steel one. Therefore, when using a steel cable, only pulleys with steel sheaves are suitable.
To be continued ;..;

18.12.2023

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