1) Fall-factor 1.5–2 fall onto a daisy chain while aid climbing. The daisy chain arrested the fall, but the climber suffered a fractured rib.
Source: americanalpineclub.org
2) Similar aid-climbing case: fall-factor ~1.5 fall onto a tether made from 6 mm Dyneema cord. The tether held, but the impact reportedly damaged/tore the harness and the climber later experienced back pain.
Source: goclimbing.ru
3) Climbing harness belay loop cut by a girth-hitched daisy chain, probably a thin Dyneema one.
Source: painislove.lt
4) Anchor point failed after a fall-factor ~1.5 fall onto a static sling tether. The climber fell to his death.
Source: ukclimbing.com
5) Sling tether made from webbing tied with a water knot came untied. The tether failed while loaded, resulting in a fatal fall.
Source: americanalpineclub.org
______________________________
I’m sure there are hundreds of undocumented injuries, ripped-out anchor points, and near misses caused by the forces generated when falling onto static tethers, especially HMPE ones.
There are dozens of tests showing the actual kN values — and they are huge! Most of these tests use rigid steel masses, so the results cannot be transferred directly to the human body, but they can still be extrapolated with some caution and give a useful indication of the forces involved.
Source: americanalpineclub.org
2) Similar aid-climbing case: fall-factor ~1.5 fall onto a tether made from 6 mm Dyneema cord. The tether held, but the impact reportedly damaged/tore the harness and the climber later experienced back pain.
Source: goclimbing.ru
3) Climbing harness belay loop cut by a girth-hitched daisy chain, probably a thin Dyneema one.
Source: painislove.lt
4) Anchor point failed after a fall-factor ~1.5 fall onto a static sling tether. The climber fell to his death.
Source: ukclimbing.com
5) Sling tether made from webbing tied with a water knot came untied. The tether failed while loaded, resulting in a fatal fall.
Source: americanalpineclub.org
______________________________
I’m sure there are hundreds of undocumented injuries, ripped-out anchor points, and near misses caused by the forces generated when falling onto static tethers, especially HMPE ones.
There are dozens of tests showing the actual kN values — and they are huge! Most of these tests use rigid steel masses, so the results cannot be transferred directly to the human body, but they can still be extrapolated with some caution and give a useful indication of the forces involved.
If you are aware of other cases, please feel free to contact me via Facebook, Instagram, Telegram, or at bikulov.r.a@gmail.com so they can be included in this list.
